“In New Orleans,” says pianist, composer, and producer Allen Toussaint, “the music isn’t just in the clubs or on the dance floor, it’s in everything. You can feel it in the street, see it in the buildings and taste it in the food.” AHA meeting attendees would do well to follow Toussaint’s lead and experience the Crescent City through its music. Walk around, and you’ll encounter it, especially in the French Quarter. On most days, a brass band performs in front of the Cabildo on Jackson Square and a jazz ensemble plays at the corner of Royal and St. Peter streets. As you wander, you’ll hear everything from a solitary accordionist to an eight-piece band.
Catching music in clubs has never been easier. Many performances begin in the late afternoon, particularly on Frenchmen Street, which is a healthy walk or a short cab or bus ride from the meeting hotels. Most places have either a modest cover or no cover at all, which is great for customers but not for musicians. Please support them by contributing to the tip jar and buying a CD.
New Orleans nightclubs and other venues offer an astounding variety of music these days, from traditional jazz to bounce, the local variation of hip-hop. You might be able to see such icons as Dr. John, Irma Thomas, and the Neville Brothers, or the acclaimed funk/rock trombone band Bonerama. Fans of HBO’s Treme will want to seek out Kermit Ruffins, Trombone Shorty, and John Boutte. Or you might check out rising stars like singer-songwriter Mia Borders.
For the latest news, reviews, and performance listings, visit the monthly music magazine Offbeat‘s web site; you can grab a free print edition when you arrive. Offbeat also offers a smart phone app that makes club-hopping easy. The Lagniappe section of the Friday Times-Picayune is another source for information, as is the free alternative weekly, Gambit.
Don’t forget to tune in to local radio. Community-supported WWOZ (90.7) plays primarily Louisiana music, with a dash of Celtic and world music on the weekends. Tulane University WTUL (91.5) offers an eclectic mix of local and other music.
The Louisiana Music Factory 210 Decatur St., 504-586-1094. 10:00 a.m.–7:00 p.m., Sunday, noon–6:00 p.m., stocks a wide selection of Louisiana CDs, DVDs, and music-related books. Check the store’s calendar for free in-store concerts.
The following list, divided roughly by location, includes the best-known clubs with active music calendars. For a more comprehensive listing, see the sources noted above. Smoking in bars is not prohibited by law, but a growing number of venues are smoke-free.
Near the Meeting Hotels
Irvin Mayfield’s I Club, JW Marriott, 614 Canal St. (Common St. entrance), 504-527-6712. Smoke-free. Enjoy a variety of music, from jazz to blues and Mardi Gras Indian music, at this club run by trumpeter Irvin Mayfield.
The Carousel Bar & Lounge, Monteleone Hotel, 214 Royal St., 504-523-3341. This lounge sparkles after its recent remodel. Sit on a barstool, and you’ll slowly revolve around the bar. Happy-hour entertainment, plus later shows.
House of Blues, 225 Decatur St., 504-310-499. National and local acts.
One Eyed Jack’s, 615 Toulouse St., 504-569-8361. Alternative touring acts in a 400-person venue.
Hermes Bar, Antoine’s Restaurant, 713 St. Louis St., 504-581-4422. Smoke-free. Great music Friday and Saturday nights at 9:30 p.m., with a special bar menu.
Preservation Hall, 726 St. Peter St., 504-522-2841. Live music nightly except for occasional closures, 8:00–11:00 p.m., $15 admission, all ages. Preservation Hall remains a great place to hear traditional jazz and brass band music. An exhibition at the Louisiana State Museum’s Old U.S. Mint marks the fiftieth anniversary of this historic hall.
Irvin Mayfield’s Jazz Playhouse, 300 Bourbon St., 504-553-2299, Royal Sonesta Hotel. No cover most nights, but a one-drink minimum. Great jazz, with brass bands performing at midnight on Saturdays.
Fritzel’s European Jazz Club, 733 Bourbon St., 504-586-4800. Excellent traditional jazz nightly.
Lower French Quarter/Frenchmen Street
Old U.S. Mint, Louisiana State Museum and the New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park. 400 Esplanade Ave., 504-568-6993, musicatthemint.org and 916 N. Peters St., 504-589-4841. The National Park Service sponsors free noon and afternoon jazz concerts and programs Tuesday through Saturday; the Louisiana State Museum hosts ticketed evening concerts.
Palm Court Jazz Café, 1204 Decatur St., 504-525-0200. Wednesday-Sunday, 7:00–11:00 p.m. Traditional jazz.
The Maison, 508 Frenchmen St., 504-371-5543. Traditional and swing jazz, starting as early as 4:00 p.m.
Blue Nile, 532 Frenchmen St., 504-948-2583. You’ll hear jazz, blues, and funk at this popular club.
Three Muses, 536 Frenchmen St., 504-252-4801. Closed Tuesday. No reservations. Arrive early (doors open at 4:00) for a seat at this popular live music/small plate venue.
DBA, 618 Frenchmen St., 504-942-3731. Early evening music with no cover most days; $5–10 cover for shows starting at 10:00 or 11:00 p.m. Smoke-free. This venue showcases a wide variety of local and Louisiana music, from jazz to funk and Cajun. A great selection of premium beer and liquor.
Snug Harbor, 626 Frenchmen St., 504-949-0696. Cover $15–30. Advance ticket purchase recommended. Smoke-free. An intimate club featuring modern jazz. Ellis Marsalis appears regularly on Fridays, but any night is worthwhile.
The Spotted Cat Music Club, 623 Frenchmen St. Jazz and blues beginning at 4:00 p.m., earlier on Sundays. No cover, but a one-drink minimum. You won’t be disappointed in the music.
St. Claude Avenue/Faubourg Marigny/Bywater
Siberia, 2227 St. Claude Ave., 504-265-8855. A wide variety of acts, including metal, punk, bounce, blues, country, and Cajun. Tasty Slavic food in the kitchen, including pierogi and red beet Reuben.
The Allways Lounge, 2240 St. Claude Ave., 504-218-5778. Eclectic music and theater. Smoke-free for performances.
The Hi-Ho Lounge, 2239 St. Claude Ave., 504-945-4446. On Mondays, join the bluegrass pickin’ session and enjoy red beans and rice; on Thursdays, you might find a brass band.
Saturn Bar, 3067 St. Claude Ave., 504-949-7532, no web site. Closed Mondays. A legendary offbeat dive, with live music some nights.
Mimi’s in the Marigny, 2601 Royal St., 504-872-9868. This very good tapas bar also features live music.
Treme
The Mother-in-Law Lounge, 1500 N. Claiborne. This shrine to R&B great Ernie K-Doe, whose best-known hit was “Mother-in-Law,” is now owned by jazz trumpeter Kermit Ruffins. At press time, Ruffins has not yet opened the club, but check the listings. For more on K-Doe and the lounge, see Ben Sandmel’s engaging Ernie K-Doe: The R&B Emperor of New Orleans (2012).
Kermit’s Treme Speakeasy Restaurant and Bar, 1535 Basin St., 504-309-5828. Jazz trumpeter Kermit Ruffins usually performs Sunday and Monday; check the schedule for other nights. The kitchen serves a changing menu of inexpensive homestyle food, including red beans and rice, stewed rabbit, and turkey wings.
Lee Circle & Uptown
The Circle Bar, 1032 St. Charles Ave. (at Lee Circle), 504-588-2616, no web site. This club showcases an eclectic mix of music from local and touring acts.
Tipitina’s, 501 Napoleon Ave., 504-895-8477. Dedicated fans opened this club in 1977 to give legendary R&B performer Professor Longhair a regular venue, naming it after one of the pianist’s most popular songs. Tipitina’s quickly became the iconic New Orleans nightclub. A weekly highlight: Bruce Daigrepont’s Fais Do-Do (Cajun dance) on Sunday afternoons starting at 5:30.
Carrollton/Mid-City
Maple Leaf Bar, 8316 Oak St., 504-866-9359. This classic bar with great atmosphere showcases brass bands and funk.
Mid-City Lanes Rock ‘n’ Bowl, 3000 S. Carrollton, 504-861-1700. Smoke-free. Great New Orleans and Louisiana music, and you can bowl, too. The dance floor is enormous, and you’ll have no trouble finding a partner, especially on Thursday, which is zydeco night.
Chickie Wah Wah’s, 2828 Canal Street, 504-304-4714. Smoke-free. This club features a variety of local and touring acts playing jazz and regional roots music. Garage Pizza runs the kitchen.
Karen Trahan Leathem (Louisiana State Museum) is developing a permanent exhibition on Louisiana music, which is scheduled to open at the Old U.S. Mint in New Orleans in late 2014. She is a member of the Local Arrangements Committee.
